I lived for six years on the Island of Skye. In that time I got to know it in all its moods and to learn some of its secrets. Here are a few of my tips for enjoying the Island.
Here’s some great places to go…
The Quiraing
A magical landscape of towering rock pinnacles and steep cliffs gouged into the landscape after huge quantities of rock slipped into the sea. To stand and gaze on it is to feel yourself transported to a timeless landscape. I know of nowhere else in Britain that has such a surreal aspect to it.
It’s only a 10 minute drive north from the capital of Skye, Portree and the walking route to the Old Man of Storr, which is probably the most famous landmark on Skye, a tall rock pinnacle, is only 3 km but is fairly steep.
There is a secret to exploring the Quiraing. Most people go there when it is sunny and the views are clear and it’s certainly true that there are some spectacular views out across the sea to the mainland. When I lived on the island I would wait until the mist rolled down from the hills and shrouded the area in a milky veil. This is the time to see the quiring. Walk up from the road and into the mist and let it envelope in its moist gentle embrace. Then, when the heather sparkles with a million water droplets and the think curtains of moisture hide the world from eyes, this is the best time see the Quiraing but there is a trick here, a secret, don’t look with your eyes, let your imagination open up and then you will see the true wonder of this place. In the mist it becomes magical as the great spires drift out of the mist to stand before you for only a few moments until they vanish into a hidden other world.
It’s now that it would not seem odd to see Gandalf stride from behind one of the rocky pillars, staff in hand, with his beard glistening with water. Or perhaps Jon Snow might pass you, dire wolf beside him, walking to do battle with the Lannisters on some great amphitheatre of stone only just out of sight.
That’s what the place feels like to me at least. Let your imagination wander, you never know what you might find. If you travel to the Quiraing it’s as well to remember that this is rugged terrain and the weather here is fickle and can change at any moment. This is mountain country and you’ll need to go equipped with outdoor clothing capable of keeping out the elements. The path is well marked but, unless you are confident of your navigation skills, you would be wise not to stray from the path as this is wild country and, when the mist sweeps in from the sea, perhaps there be dragons here.
If you’d like to know more about travelling in the amazing Scottish Isles you can pre-order Island Bagging a fantastic guide by Helen and Paul Webster
Raasay
You’ll probably come to the Isle of Skye across the bridge from the mainland, as most folk do. That Skye is linked to the mainland by a concrete span does not detract from it’s Island feel but, if you have an urge to travel by boat to the Isle for that real Island experience, you can still take the small ferry from Glenelg on the mainland to arrive in style on the Southern peninsular of Sleat. If you are even more adventurous you could sail in to Uig, a little fishing village on Skye’s Western shore. This would mean a long journey through the Western Isles. A great way to do this is to take advantage of the roving tickets, or Island hoppers as they are known, offered by Caledonia MacBrayne, the ferry company that is the life blood of Scotland’s Island communities.
A trip to the small Island of Raasay, just off Skye, is something I always enjoy. Raasay is a long thin island and is always dominated by the extinct volcano that rises from its centre, Dun caan (Pronounced Dun Can, with two words.) The summit of Duncaan gives stunning views but, once again this walk is one that should be approached with respect as it’s remoteness adds to its seriousness.
A 25 minute ferry runs from Sconser, on the mainland of Skye to Raasay. Raasay has a distillery to visit, five hotels if you want to stay, and also boasts the famous Calum’s road. This road was built almost single handed by an islander whose name was of course Calum. He became so frustrated by Highland Council’s unwillingness to build a road to the north of Raasay that he decided to build it himself. Taking the wheelbarrow, if not the law, into his own hands. Totally undaunted by the fact that the road doesn’t really go anywhere, except almost to the northern tip of Rassay which is as close as you can get to being nowhere whilst actually being somewhere if you follow my drift, he built the road over many years. In places the road is very narrow and it’s sort of road that any driver needs to keep a pretty close eye on as, if you take your eyes off it to gaze at the scenery, you are likely to wind up in the sea itself and are in grave danger of actually becoming part of the scenery.
Read about my trip to the bothy at the end Raasay
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The road ends a few miles short of the very northern tip of the island and, if like me, you enjoy exploring remote places you can leave the car behind, put on your boots, and journey to Black Donald’s House, the tiny bothy on the islands northern tip. I did that a while ago and you can read about my adventures here.
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No visit to Skye could be complete without a visit to the iconic Sligachan Hotel which sits at the foot of the Cuillin mountains and give great views of the mountain Sgurr Nan Gillean (Peak of the young men.) This is one of the finest hills in all the Scottish Highlands although its ascent is not for the inexperienced as the final section to the summit is a tricky scramble over a large drop. The peak has a jagged profile and looks as though someone took a bit out of it a one point.
The Sligachan Hotel has an important place in British climbing history and stands alongside the Clachaig Inn, the Wasdale Head and the Pen-Y-Gwryd Hotel in Wales as one of the great cradles of mountaineering. It was the base that Norman Collie, a pioneer of rock climbing on Skye used with his friend, local guide, John Mackenzie when he explored new climbs in the Cuillin mountains. Years after his prime, as an old man, Collie returned to the hotel and would stand in the hotel window for hour staring at his beloved mountains which age had put beyond his reach.
Now the pub is a thriving centre for walkers, climbers and tourists with food and live music on offer throughout the season.
Book Ahead
One final tip these days is that the Island has become the victim of its own success and in the summer months it is very important to book accommodation well in advance. There is no point turning up on Skye and hoping to find somewhere to stay, that just won’t happen. The roads can also be busy and, since they are not designed for tourist traffic or the blight of modern camper vans the size of housing estates, getting around can take a little longer than you might expect.
These are just a few of the many magical places you can visit on Skye, no matter where you go on the Island I guarantee the place will remain in your memory and you will want to go back again and again.
I’m sure your first photo is of the Storr? and no idea why you’re supporting the Websters – they run one of the most troll-infested forums known to the walking world and kick off the bullied rather than the bullies. They also threaten to get people sacked from their jobs if they complain!
Hello John. I have renewed my interest in Skye since the days you and I climbed in the Peak & the Alps. Was at Broadford in May with friends and managed various excursions into the Cuillin. Enjoyed reading your blog and the “Last Hillwalker”! David D.
Hello DD Sorry only just seen this. Good to hear from you. Fond memories of climbing together on Wharncliff wall of death.